The insights of La Saponaria

How to properly treat combination, oily and suffocated skin

Written by Simona | Apr 5, 2023 8:37:10 AM

What is the best way to treat combination and oily skin? How best to take care of it? A complete guide and the products to use, step by step, to make it more beautiful and healthy.

What is combination skin?

Combination or oily skin is caused by an excessive production of sebum, a natural oily substance produced at the level of the hair follicles that softens and moisturises the skin and protects it from dust, pollutants, wind and sunlight.

It is when sebum production becomes excessive that we speak of seborrhoeic or oily skin, the typical signs of which are a shiny and oily appearance, uneven skin texture, blackheads and pimples, enlarged pores, etc.

Depending on how much sebum is produced and the areas affected, oily skin can in turn be divided into five categories:

1.    Oily, greasy skin, characterised by the production of very fluid sebum, the dominant feature of which is a shiny, oily appearance with enlarged pores
2.    Oily, seborrhoeic skin, where sebaceous gland activity is so excessive that it leads to dilation of the follicle walls, causing the 'orange peel' skin effect
3.    Oily, suffocated skin, in which the sebum is very dense, so it remains blocked inside the follicles, obstructing their lumen, where the sebum accumulated is joined by cellular debris and bacteria, giving rise to what we call comedones, which may be closed (whiteheads) or open (blackheads)
4.    Impure acne-prone skin. Typical in adolescence, this type of skin is characterised by the dreaded pimples, as well as papules or pustules. These inflammations cause redness on the skin and make it sensitive to changes in temperature, which often causes problems
5.    Combination skin, in which very oily and acne-prone areas coexist with other very dry areas

To improve these conditions and act selectively, it is very important to adopt a specific beauty routine that can counteract the appearance of the skin, making it more beautiful and healthier.

What are the goals of a specific beauty routine for combination skin care?

•    To cleanse oily skin gently
•    To purify the skin and normalise and contain sebaceous production
•    To exfoliate the skin, encouraging cell renewal
•    To counteract the spread of bacteria, responsible for papules, pustules and acne lesions
•    To help close pores
•    To moisturise in depth
•    To protect the skin from atmospheric agents

These objectives can only be achieved by using specific products and by taking a few small daily actions with perseverance, constancy and without becoming discouraged! It will take some time before results are visible, once balance has been restored to your skin!

1. Cleansing

This first step may seem the most obvious, but it’s not actually as simple as it sounds!

Choosing the right cleanser is very important, especially for delicate and problematic cases such as oily skin. An overly aggressive product that washes too vigorously can alter the hydrolipid film, irritating the skin and leading to a further increase in sebum production by the sebaceous glands, known as the rebound effect or paradox effect.

It is much better to use gentle cleansers that rinse off easily, preferably products with a slightly acidic pH, around 4.5 and 5.5, which helps to regularise sebum production and thus limit shine and impurities.

A recommendation: try to avoid no-rinse products, which can clog pores, and use lukewarm water to remove all impurities. Once you have thoroughly cleansed your face, use cold water to close the pores.

 

One specific cleanser for combination and sensitive skin is Bye Bye Impurities, a purifying, solid facial cleanser with a lightweight, zero-waste and plastic-free recycled cardboard pack. On contact with water, it turns into a soft cream that deeply cleanses the skin and removes excess sebum. It will be your most trusted ally in the battle against imperfections and shine, leaving the skin fresh and purified.

Mirtilla Cleansing Mousse is also suitable for combination skin: it contains blueberry constitutional water, rich in vitamins, organic acids and natural antioxidants, all substances considered to be protectors par excellence of the capillary microcirculation and effective at combating couperose. It also contains hyaluronic acid, for moisturised, glowing skin, active Venus rice extract, rich in minerals and natural antioxidants, and marigold, a gentle, locally sourced ingredient with a soothing effect!

For super-gentle but effective, thorough cleansing ,we recommend using the cleanser with the Bamboo Makeup Remover Wipes or with natural cotton pads, both reusable and environmentally friendly!

Another excellent idea is double cleansing. This in-depth skin cleansing ritual is composed of two phases:

1.    oil-based cleansing, which acts by affinity (you can use an oil or butter such as Hip Hip Butter)
2.    foam-based cleansing, which acts by contrast (for example Bye Bye Impurities or Mirtilla Cleansing Mousse)

2. Exfoliating

Oily skins are often dull and grey, so they require a cosmetic treatment that encourages cell renewal and stimulates collagen and elastin synthesis. Exfoliation is particularly suitable for combination skin, because it helps get rid of excess sebum trapped in the glandular ducts, cleaning the skin in depth.

There are 3 ways to exfoliate the skin:

•    Mechanical Scrub: the exfoliation action is performed by small abrasive elements contained in the formula. The scrub is applied to moist skin and activated with circular movements (brushing) 
•    Enzyme peel, formulated with enzymes such as papain, bromelain, cocoa, red fruits and pumpkin 
•    Chemical peel, which can be formulated with AHA, BHA or PHA acids, or a combination of them. It exfoliates the skin in depth, promoting cell turnover and the production of elastin and collagen

The mechanical scrubs we can choose from include:
•    WonderScrub - Facial exfoliating gel: a gentle scrub to defeat dullness, eliminate dead cells and invigorate the skin. It contains all the vitality of the pomegranate, a super-fruit rich in antioxidants, vitamins and valuable minerals, from the constituent tissue of which we extract an authentic elixir for the skin, using an open-cell drying process. Venus rice is rich in antioxidants useful for the skin's microcirculation, while to invigorate and purify it, we have chosen cellulose microspheres, which are biodegradable and have a mild exfoliating effect
•    Nice to meet you - Mousse Scrub for Face & Hands: a mousse scrub with a soft, compact consistency. It gently exfoliates the face and hands, removing dead cells and smog, to make the skin glow from the very first glance (and the first handshake!). It is a 2-in-1 exfoliation: the brown sugar performs the first, very light exfoliation, removing the first layer of dead cells and brightening the skin. The biodegradable cellulose spheres act as a second, deeper exfoliation, removing the remaining dead cells and stimulating cell turnover

An exfoliating scrub treatment can be used once or twice a week, applying a purifying mask immediately afterwards. Remember that masks must always be applied on thoroughly cleansed skin and better still, after exfoliation, otherwise impurities will penetrate deeply into the pores.

As far as peels are concerned, we can do an exfoliation treatment with a chemical peel once a month at home:

•    AHA Peel: a monthly deep cleansing and regeneration treatment. It can be applied either in the morning or in the evening and should be done once a day for 6 days every month, leaving it on for 10 minutes and then rinsing it off. Thanks to its high skin tolerability, it can be used even by the most sensitive skin, and is dermatologically tested. It is non-sensitising, can be used in the morning and evening, even in summer, and is highly compatible: after use, you can proceed with the normal steps of your daily beauty routine. The only exception is that Niacinamide+Zinc should not be used afterwards, but you can still do it at different times of the day.

3. Toning and normalising

 

Immediately after washing oily skin, it’s advisable to restore balance and normalise it with the use of a tonic.

The tonic, which must be alcohol-free so as not to cause further irritation, not only removes the last remaining impurities or detergent residues, but also has a purifying and astringent action.

The best solution is to opt for active waters or hydrolates:

- Soothing Lemon Balm Active Water is specifically for combination and impure skin and for those who want smoother, brighter skin with soothing and purifying properties! This precious water is enriched with Hyaluronic Acid, for an anti-ageing action, Venus rice extract, rich in proteins and minerals that are precious for the skin, and Burdock root to restore balance and glow to the skin

- Witch Hazel Hydrolate regenerates, soothes and purifies the epidermis. It is suitable both for impure skin, due to its astringent properties, and for delicate and irritated skin, due to its decongestant action

- Sage Hydrolate is suitable for combating oily and impure skin problems. Particularly suitable for regulating excessive perspiration, and in hair care

-Thyme Hydrolate has antibacterial, antifungal and healing properties. It helps soothe skin irritations, disinfects and is a valuable aid against acne

The use of these tannin-rich medicinal plants to treat oily skin has a twofold advantage: not only do they reduce sebum production, but they also combat free radicals and have a decongestant and anti-inflammatory effect that is particularly useful in the case of acne.

4. Purifying

Oily skin is often associated with acne, impurities and blackheads, caused by inflammation and bacterial proliferation.

Natural essential oils are valuable allies in this battle. It is possible to add a few drops to a clay base to prepare a compress that will make a big improvement:

•    Lemon essential oil (not to be used in summer, because citrus essential oils are photosensitising): an excellent tonic for oily skin, helping to balance the sebaceous glands and minimise fat production
•    Rosemary essential oil: an excellent astringent and skin purifying agent that can be used to treat oily skin, thanks to its powerful antibacterial and antiseptic action
•    Mint essential oil: cleanses pores, eliminates dead cells and reduces blackheads and comedones

Another useful aid are masks, which can be clay-based or a mix of natural active ingredients with a purifying action:

•    White clay is particularly suitable for dry, sensitive and irritated skin, such as oily, suffocated skin
•    Green clay is particularly suitable for combination, oily and inflamed skin
•    Peel-off mask with rice powder and seaweed, for a remineralising and sebum-regulating action. Smooths and restores balance to the skin, leaving it fresh and glowing. 5 ml of your chosen tonic or 5 drops of face serum specifically for combination skin can be added to the mask
•    Wondermask, purifying fabric mask, ideal for combination and oily skin. It fights impurities effectively, but is gentle on the skin, with a soothing and moisturising action performed by natural Bisabolol, Tamarind extract, Aloe and Orange Blossom. It has a very high concentration of natural phytocomplexes able to create an authentic, intensive purifying treatment together with Moringa phytocomplex, with a detoxifying and anti-pollution action, Rosemary and Burdock, with an astringent and balancing-restoring action, and Azelaic Acid, to combat imperfections
•    Bye Bye Impurities - Purifying Face Mask, a concentrated mask, ideal for combination and oily skin. Its special formula, rich in purifying and decongesting active ingredients, combats excess sebum, so you can say goodbye to blemishes and shine, for velvety, purified skin. A combo of actives for a real knock-out action, without ever being aggressive. Rich in azelaic acid, which counteracts the formation of comedones, and with a depigmenting action that reduces the formation of dark spots

All face masks can be applied once or twice a week as an intensive treatment, immediately after cleansing. After application, you can proceed with the normal steps in your skincare routine.

3a. Facial Serums and Pure Actives

A specific purifying action can be found in face serums specifically for combination and oily skin.

The Pure Active that comes top of the list is definitely Niacinamide + Zinc.

Niacinamide is a derivative of vitamin B3 (or niacin), ideal for combination and impure skin. It works miracles on combination and oily skin. Together with zinc, which has soothing and astringent properties, it is the perfect ally in the fight against pimples, blemishes and blackheads.

Niacinamide is able to:
- prevent the appearance of new imperfections and reduce sebum production - make the skin less shiny
- make the skin texture firmer by acting on enlarged pores and preserving skin hydration 
- make the skin texture bright and even, lightening blemishes and acne scars (depigmenting action) 
- protect and strengthen the skin barrier 
- increase cell turnover and improve cell metabolism 
- prevent photo-ageing, by protecting the skin from the action of free radicals and stimulating collagen production

Zinc is able to:
- reduce the proliferation of bacteria and other microorganisms 
- soothe and dry pimples and blemishes, thanks to its astringent properties 
- soothe and alleviate redness, by aiding normal skin physiology 
- form a protective screen against sunlight and atmospheric agents

Niacinamide 10% and zinc gluconate 3% are combined in our shock treatment active ingredient.

This serum is to be considered as an intensive purifying treatment: it can be included for 15 days morning and evening in your beauty routine and then used with less intensity and frequency, on the areas to be treated only.

Another unfailing ally of combination and oily skin is the Bioactive Anti-imperfection Serum , with azelaic acid. Azelaic acid is a natural substance found on the skin and derived from wheat. It can inhibit the formation of free fatty acids on the surface of the skin, thereby aiding balance.

It also has excellent anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, inhibits the formation of acne-causing bacteria, and is a powerful ally against pimples and blackheads.

This serum is ideal to eliminate minor imperfections and soothe the skin. It contains purifying and soothing Lemon Balm Constitutional Water and a mix of moisturising and sebum-regulating active ingredients.

If, on the other hand, you have particularly oily skin, you should choose the Bioactive Mattifying Serum, which contains a cocktail of purifying and sebum-regulating active ingredients to help close pores and eliminate impurities, and pure organic rice powder to absorb excess sebum and say goodbye to shiny skin. It’s perfect for effectively counteracting shine and closing pores, and for smooth, matt skin all day long.

What if you have shiny, oily skin with imperfections? You can use Niacinamide+Zinc all over the face and then apply the Anti-Imperfection Serum in the areas with imperfections, often the cheeks and chin, and the Mattifying Serum in the area that tends to shine, often the T-zone.

5. Moisturising

Oily skin, even though it appears shiny and oily, is very often dehydrated. Many hope to obtain good results by using cleansers with strong degreasing properties and by overdoing it with scrubs and exfoliants, which instead of bringing benefits actually do nothing but deplete the natural hydrolipidic film and thus the protective effectiveness of the skin barrier!

So oily skin also needs moisture, and we advise you to choose creams that are light but rich in moisturising ingredients, all the better if they contain inflammation or sebum-regulating active ingredients such as lemon balm, burdock or aloe vera.

You can use it morning and evening on a clean face and after a specific anti-imperfection serum. If the areas of the face show marked differences (e.g. if you notice excessive oiliness in the T-zone), you may choose to use only serum on certain parts of the face.

If your skin is also dehydrated and suffocated, you could also benefit greatly from the use of moisturising actives, such as synergetic pea extract or hyaluronic acid, to be used instead of serum or in addition to moisturiser.

•    Lemon Balm Moisturising Face Cream is perfect for impure and combination skin, and ideal for those who want to eliminate impurities for glowing but not shiny skin! This moisturising and balance-restoring cream is made with extra-gentle apricot oil and lemon balm constitutional water, a precious extract obtained from the cells of the plant, which has extraordinary soothing and purifying properties. It contains Tamarind extract, Hyaluronic Acid and a mix of toning and antioxidant ingredients. We have also added organic rice powder to the formula, to restore the balance of sebum production, so you can say goodbye to shiny skin
•    Aloe Vera and Argan Moisturising Face Cream, a very fresh gel with moisturising and balance-restoring properties, thanks to the aloe and argan oil. It leaves the skin feeling fresh, soft and silky
•    CBD Anti-Ageing Face Cream-Gel. This cream has been specially formulated for male skin, because it is usually oilier than female skin. It has great ingredients for everyone, however, particularly CBD, a potent cannabis sativa extract known for its extraordinary balance-restoring and antioxidant properties. It also has an anti-ageing action designed to intensely moisturise and combat the signs of ageing and fatigue on the face

6. Protecting

Don’t be fooled by the initial beneficial effect of the sun, which dries out the skin and gets rid of imperfections: always use a sun filter to protect yourself from sun damage, because the benefit is only temporary. Sun exposures leads to premature skin ageing and, in the long term, makes the problem worse.

Be careful, however, because the wrong type of cream can actually increase sebum production, and consequently blackheads and pimples. Choose a very fluid, light product, able to protect, moisturise and mattify the skin, without clogging pores and helping the epidermis to breathe properly.

•    High Protection Bio Pro Day Face Cream has a silky, light texture and contains only the latest generation of mineral filters and a mix of valuable plant complexes that offer high protection from UVA and UVB rays and defend the skin against oxidative stress. It contains hyaluronic acid with a very low molecular weight, to give the skin tone and hydration, natural polysaccharides to stimulate collagen production, blueberry constitutional water, Vitamin E, with an extraordinary antioxidant action, and Bisabolol, to enhance its calming and soothing effect.

7. Make-up

Make-up for combination and oily skin can be a real hassle, especially in summer, when you tend to sweat more.

Oily skin, micro-perspiration and enlarged pores are the main enemies of this skin type, and hot weather worsens the problem, so make-up can become a mess in no time.

Avoid wearing too much make-up and products that can clog pores and make the situation worse!

We recommend opting for a BB Cream, a multifunctional cream able to perfect skin discolouration and - unlike tinted creams - perfectly cover redness, pimples, skin blemishes and small wrinkles, thus evening out the complexion in a single step.

•     “Like a Dream” BB Cream, with pomegranate, witch hazel, jojoba and hyaluronic acid, is an authentic beauty treatment that not only evens the complexion and leaves skin glowing, but also helps to prevent skin ageing. A formulation suitable for all skin types (dry, combination or oily), in four shades (Fair, Sand, Gold and Beige) that blend perfectly with all skin types.

Its light texture ensures quick and easy application, making it perfect for those who do not like wearing make-up and are looking for a 100% natural effect. Its medium coverage neutralises redness and imperfections, for a naturally matt and even effect.

8. The complete packages

A complete skincare routine to take care of combination, oily and suffocated skin can be found in the Stop Imperfections Beauty Routine Kit, a package of products with a 20% discount and free shipping! 

Here you’ll find everything you need to build a facial routine with a powerful sebum-regulating action, to nourish dry or suffocated areas and to get rid of inflammation and impurities. The perfect routine for those who want to stop polishing and start shining!

The package includes these products, all in full size:
- Mirtilla Cleansing Mousse (150 ml) 
- Wonderscub (100 ml) 
- Lemon Balm Constitutional Water (50 ml) 
- Anti-imperfection Serum (15 ml) 
- Lemon Balm Face Cream (50 ml) 
- Purifying Wondermask (1 disposable fabric mask) 

Another interesting package for those with combination skin and imperfections is the Maskne Kit, the complete package for dealing with face mask acne and soothing redness. The skin under the mask tends to be subject to imperfections and reddening, or dry out more than it should. The problem is so common and widespread that a new term has been coined: maskne, mask acne.

The package contains these products, all in full size:

- Purifying Solid Face Cleanser 
- Bye Bye Impurities (70 g) 
- Lemon Balm Active Water (50 ml) 
- Niacinamide (30 ml) 
- Hyaluronic Acid (30 ml) 
- Anti-imperfection Serum (15 ml) 
- Purifying Face Mask 
- Bye Bye Impurities (35 ml)

Still not sure about your skin type? Take the test!