A phenomenal ally in the fight against skin aging, retinol is one of the most loved and at the same time the most discussed ingredients on the beauty scene: let's see why!

His fame precedes him! Retinol, derived from Vitamin A, is the must-have ingredient of many beauty routines that aim to reduce the dreaded signs of aging! But with this ingredient there are not only 'pros': using it without the necessary precautions can bring numerous disadvantages to our skin, certainly not what we want from a treatment that promises to improve the beauty of our complexion!

What is Retinol?

Retinol belongs to the retinoid family and is one of the most famous derivatives of Vitamin A. It should not be confused with retinoic acid, also derived from Vitamin A, which has very different characteristics in terms of structure, effects and the level of tolerability. Let's do some clarity then!

Of the two, retinol, the protagonist of this article, is the only one that can be used for cosmetic use, while retinoic acid, which has a decidedly more aggressive action on the skin, is a substance related to the pharmaceutical field and therefore it can be taken, with a medical prescription, only through drugs.

When administered as a drug, retinoic acid takes the name of tretinoin and is mainly used to treat various dermatological diseases including acne, follicular keratosis and melasma. Its action is mainly to exfoliate the skin, renew the most superficial layers of the epidermis and reduce wrinkles.

Retinol has a milder and less aggressive action than retinoic acid but, as we will see shortly, it is not without contraindications, but for the moment let's focus on its positive characteristics!

The "pros" of retinol

Retinol has known, and still knows, wide use in the cosmetic industry: it is not difficult to find it among the ingredients of anti-aging face creams, uniforming serums or treatments to reduce skin spots.

This wide diffusion has allowed many skins to benefit from its positive effects, among which we have:

• exfoliating action: excellent for regenerating the skin, smoothing the texture, reducing spots and giving the complexion a healthy and luminous appearance.
• anti-aging action: retinol neutralizes the molecule that originates free radicals, which are the main suspects when it comes to cellular aging. It also stimulates the production of collagen and elastin, proteins that help keep the skin supple and young for longer.
• sebum-regulating action: this feature makes it particularly appreciable for all oily or combination skin types that need to keep the production of sebum and the consequent lucidity under control.
• anti-impurity action: retinol is also excellent for counteracting the appearance of pimples, acne and for reducing the appearance of pores.

In short, retinol is a prodigious ingredient, inevitable in any anti-aging or anti-impurity beauty routine! But unfortunately, this “wonder vitamin” also has a dark side that makes it unsuitable for some skin types and, in general, not that comfortable to use. Let's find out why!

The “cons” of retinol

Generally speaking, retinoids, being very powerful compounds, can cause more or less unpleasant damage to the skin. Among the most common side effects experienced in the topical application of retinoids is retinoid dermatitis, a condition that causes itching, redness, dryness and flaking.

Retinol can also cause dryness and skin irritation, albeit to a lesser extent and less frequently than more potent retinoids such as tretinoin.

Another aspect to consider if we intend to include retinol in our skin care routine is that not all skins tolerate it in the same way, especially if retinol is present in cosmetics in high percentages. In fact, up until a few years ago, the typical concentration of retinol in cosmetics, especially anti-aging ones, was around 0.5%, a percentage which certainly makes the effect of the cosmetic more effective but which it makes it even more difficult to tolerate, especially in long-term treatments.

Choosing cosmetics with a lower concentration of retinol decreases the chances of developing an intolerance towards this chemical molecule, but does not completely avoid it and in any case, even at low or very low concentrations, retinol has a cons that is by no means irrelevant, especially if you are on the lookout for search for a cosmetic to use in our daily lives, without any complications: it is photosensitizing.

This means that it is capable of exacerbating the sensitivity of the skin to sunlight. Photosensitizing substances are capable of absorbing the energy transmitted by light and amplifying it by enhancing the action of ultraviolet rays. This, in addition to increasing the production of free radicals, responsible for skin aging, amplifies the damage caused by sun exposure.

For this reason it is recommended to use cosmetics that contain retinol only in the evening and, even with this precaution, it is good to protect the skin from the action of UV rays with a SPF 50 sunscreen and avoid exposure during peak hours, from 11 to 16.

Ultimately we can say that retinol is certainly a very interesting ingredient for all skins that want to minimize the effects of skin aging or that need to keep imperfections and clarity at bay, but it certainly cannot be used 'lightly'!

And indeed, during pregnancy and breastfeeding it really cannot be used! This prohibition derives from the fact that retinol has a remarkable penetration capacity which allows it to reach the deepest layers of the skin and is potentially toxic to the baby, causing developmental problems and birth defects.

If all these contraindications and hassles are rightly discouraging you from using retinol, know that you don't necessarily have to say goodbye to all its 'miraculous' effects because over the last few years natural alternatives have been identified that mimic in everything for all the action of retinol but do not have the negative effects which instead distinguish the synthetic derivative of Vitamin A.

Herbal alternatives to retinol

Their names have now gone viral and are particularly loved by all skin addicts looking for an anti-aging product! We are talking about Bakuchiol and Fitoretinol, the two vegetable alternatives to retinol, designed for all those who poorly tolerate this synthetic derivative of Vitamin A or do not want to face its possible negative effects.

Bakuchiol and Fitoretinol, thanks to their composition of vegetable nature, are recognized as biologically compatible ingredients for the skin and therefore do not generate any intolerance reaction!

Let's get to know these two super allies of skin beauty better!

The Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol is the active ingredient extracted from the seeds and leaves of the Indian plant Psoralea Corylifolia, better known as Babchi. It usually appears as an oily compound which makes it excellent to be used to create cosmetics with nourishing power, but it's as an anti-aging that gives its best!

Regular use of bakuchiol-based cosmetics helps reduce the characteristic furrow of wrinkles, compacts and elasticises the skin, makes it appear more homogeneous and younger. It's also great for making skin discolorations less noticeable!

Its greatest value is certainly that of stimulating skin regeneration and promoting collagen synthesis, but bakuchiol also acts effectively on skin spots, in particular those due to sun damage, thanks to its ability to regulate the production of melanin.

Even acneic and impure skins love it because of its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial power which reduces the irritation caused by pimples and other imperfections and at the same time helps the skin against the aggression of pathogenic microorganisms.

It should be noted that bakuchiol has no structural resemblance to retinol but acts with a similar mechanism on the skin that allows it to have all the positive effects of retinol without being infected by the more negative and uncomfortable aspects of the latter.

The fact that bakuchiol is an active ingredient that is absolutely well tolerated by skin cells makes it ideal even for particularly sensitive skin, moreover, bakuchiol-based face creams can be used in any season because it is not photosensitizing, a characteristic that makes it also ideal for use in the morning and evening.

The last advantage is represented by the fact that bakuchiol is a perfectly safe ingredient for all moms to be and their babies and can therefore be used both during pregnancy and while breastfeeding.

For all these reasons we can conclude that bakuchiol is an excellent alternative to retinol, now let's get to know the equally valid Fitoretinol!

The phytoretinol

From the seeds of Vigna Aconitifolia, a perennial plant native to India and Pakistan belonging to the Leguminosae family, an active ingredient is obtained that is particularly suitable for taking care of the beauty of our skin: Phytoretinol. Its name already reveals its greatest value, namely that of being an excellent natural alternative to retinol!

This means that Fitoretinol has a high regenerative power for the skin but is 100% natural and, as we have already seen for bakuchiol, it has maximum skin tolerability. It can therefore be used without problems by all skin types and is particularly appreciated by those with ultra-sensitive skin, thanks to its delicate action.

Among its most appreciated features there is certainly the anti-aging action which makes it an excellent ally in all beauty routines that aim to restore a younger, more compact complexion.

When used regularly, Fitoretinol counteracts the formation of wrinkles and reduces their appearance, regenerates the epidermis, helps collagen synthesis and acts as a powerful lifter.

These coveted characteristics derive from the precious substances found in the seeds of Vigna Aconitifolia among which we find carbohydrates, proteins, lipids, polyphenols and water, all excellent substances for restoring tone and vitality to complexions marked by the passage of time.

As we have already seen for bakuchiol, phytoretinol has no contraindications and, since it is not photosensitizing, it can be used all year round, even in the height of summer, a feature which proves to be very useful for combating skin aging due to sun exposure.

In this sense, Fitoretinol knows no limitations because we can include it both in the morning skin care products and in the evening beauty routine without having to fear adverse reactions from our skin. The possibility of applying Fitoretinol morning and evening helps to obtain a more effective treatment because the skin is always in contact with the active ingredient and can benefit from all its positive qualities.

For all these reasons, Fitoretinol is one of the most loved products among the Pure Actives, our face line entirely dedicated to the care and beauty of the skin!

But how is it used? Nothing simpler! Phytoretinol is a very versatile active ingredient and lends itself well to various uses:

• pure: apply a few drops of Fitoretinol directly on the face using the practical dropper and massage the product until completely absorbed. Use it after the face cream step or, if you prefer light textures, to replace it.
• as a booster: Fitoretinol can be added to your favorite face cream or serum to boost its action.

Phytoretinol is perfect for all those who want an anti-aging product that day after day minimizes the signs of aging making the skin appear younger and more toned, without any negative consequences: even expectant mothers can use this prodigious active in all peace of mind because no ingredient inside is a danger to the baby she is carrying!

In addition to being natural, our Phytoretinol is also nature-conscious! Its pack is made of re-bottle plastic, with post-consumer recycled plastic, a type of material that is even more sustainable than normal recycled plastic! And that's not all: the bottle of all our active ingredients comes with a very useful anti-UV screen that allows the product to maintain its effectiveness!